Ottobre 6-2011-3 Take 5 and tutorial

Yesterday, I posted about this sweater and told you I would do a tutorial.  This morning Darth Baby woke at 3:30 am and decided that she was done sleeping so I decided to work on another version of the sweater that I already had cut out.

This sweater is made out of an old sweater of my mom's.  The tag was ripped out so I'm not sure of the content.  The ribbing and the jersey lining is cotton.

 First, cut out all the pieces as directed and also the clear elastic tape according to size.

Next, sew the clear elastic tape to the wrong side of the cuffs and collar pieces.  I used a two step elastic stitch with a length of 3.

Sew the front to back right sides together for the outer sweater (the shell) and lining.  For the lining I always use the softer side, if there is one, for the 'right' side.

Sew the  underarms of the sleeves right sides together (this is different from the Ottobre instructions).

Turn the sleeves right side out.

Sew the sleeves into the arm openings of the shell and lining right sides together.

 

Hem the shell according to pattern and the lining 3 cm.  I didn't hem the shell because I cut the pattern pieces at the bottom of the sweater I cut the pieces out of so that it was already hemmed.  I'd love to tell you that I used purple so that you could see the stitches, but really I only have 4 off white spools of thread and I didn't want to switch it back and forth from the serger to the coverstitch machine and back to the serger, so I used the lavender from the previous sweater.

For the cuffs and collar, stitch side edges together forming a circle, right sides together.

Fold the collar and cuffs with the clear elastic tape on the inside.

 Place the cuffs and collar on the shell, right sides together.

Pin and stitch.

From the outside the sweater will look complete at this point.  Now to add the lining.

Turn the shell so that the right side is in and turn the lining so that the soft side is out.

Slip the lining in the shell with the collar sandwiched between the two pieces.

Pin and stitch.  Again, I used the two step zigzag stitch.

After checking the collar from the outside to make sure that I did it right and there are no showing seams, I flipped it back and then serged over the stitching.

Here is the complicated part of the piece that I have to think about each time I do it.  You want to slip the sleeve lining around the cuff to meet with the seam of the shell sleeve edge.  I took two pictures to try to make it clear.

Then pin and stitch.

Again, I flip it right side out to check to make sure I did it correctly and that no seams will rub against the wearer.

I flipped it back inside again and serged it.

The completed lined sweater, where you can glimpse the lining and see that the seams are all sandwiched between the shell and the lining.  This is a great way to make a lined sweater for kids with SPD.